- Inadequate cleaning of the surface to be painted.
- Dirty spraying environment.
- Inadequate air filtration or unfiltered air entering the booth.
- Dirty or unsuitable work clothes that contain dust, lint, or fibers.
- Particles from deteriorated air supply lines.
- Using a poor grade masking paper.
- Dirty spray gun.
- Removing the vehicle from the spray booth before the finish is "dust free".
- Sand with 1200 or finer grit sandpaper, then compound and polish to restore gloss or smooth and refinish.
- Thoroughly blow off around windows, doors, jambs, hood, trunk, moldings, engine compartment, and wheel openings. Wipe the surface to be painted and the masking paper with the tack rag.
- Maintain a clean working area.
- Install proper air filters. Never use residential-type furnace filters in the spray booth. Repair any leakage found in the spray booth due to poor fitting doors, gaskets, seams or filters.
- Wear a lint free paint suit during the spray application.
- Use quality masking materials. "Wicks" found on newspaper can break away and blow into the wet paint.
- Repair or replace defective air lines.
- Properly clean and maintain spray equipment.
- Vehicle should be kept in a clean environment until finish is "dust free"
NOTE: Fine dust particles that fall on a tacky surface can be encapsulated by the finish, creating an appearance almost identical to solvent pop. This "solvent pop" appearance usually occurs on vehicles that are removed from the booth in a tacky condition and placed in another location to dry. Fine dust contamination can be removed by sanding and polishing. However, If the condition is solvent pop the finish will contain pinholes or small craters after sanding.